Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012/2013

I’m super excited about fashion again as a result of what I’ve seen so far from day 1 of Milan Fashion Week. I’ve been working on a few projects and have not had time to dedicate to this space, however I should be writing and updating here with more consistency. Thank goodness I was on Twitter, searched the #MFW hashtag and clicked some super cool links. Although the runways still look extremely pale, the textures and colors of the designs overall are stunningly exquisite. So, since I did not actually go to Italy this time, I’ve gathered what I believe are some inspiring examples from the shows thus far.

So Far Autumn/Winter from Italy we see of course lots of dramatic brown tones, blacks, dark neutrals, deep plum, very sophisticated prints, borrowing from menswear and vintage to create “retro future”, with an astute graciousness while accentuating tailored lines, equalling some seriousness nostalgia and undeniably evocative and gracious silhouettes.

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model Joan Smalls walks the runway at the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model Joan Smalls walks the runway at the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

To begin Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2012 Frida Giannini for Gucci showed her dark but romantic side for the legendary brand with a collection inspired by the resurgent Art Nouveau revival of the 1970s.

Giannini played on transparency by using lots of velvet which made up appliqué flowers on translucent chiffon and lace blouses. She showed us silk dresses featuring barely there floral prints of fading tulips or pale yellow flowers that fanned stiffly. When worn with simple heeled sandals these frocks gave the collection an romantic side in a dark palette ranging from black,purple, burgundy, navy, forest green, dark olive and brown. Furthermore, dresses and skirts were smothered in feathers that gave off an inky glow. All dark glamour. The closing dresses appeared one after another: jewelled chiffon evening gowns – their embellishments in dark green or purple encrusting the entire bodice or simply gathering at the shoulder and hip while leaving the back bare.

The models’ hair – pulled back in two twisted strands – gave the collection an innocent touch, creating nymph-like atmosphere despite the luxurious androgyny on display.

Flat heeled riding boots, wide-cut cropped jackets with gold buttons and softly belted velvet smoking jackets, combined with riding trousers that flounced over each thigh and velvet suits with harem inspired pants were signature seperates for this collection.

~ Mario Casarella

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Liu Wen (d'management) walks the runway at the Alberta Ferretti Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Tian Yi walks the runway at the Alberta Ferretti Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Joan Smalls walks the runway at the Alberta Ferretti Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Shu Pei Qin walks the runway at the Alberta Ferretti Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

When Ermanno Scervino’s models came marching down the runway for the Fall Winter 2012/13 collection it seemed as if the cavalry had arrived. Strong looks and somber colours; olive, khaki and moss greens dominated the first part of the show along with heavy winter coats and high-waisted trousers tucked into knee-high boots. Bottle green was another shade that made its way onto a number of pieces including a structured pleated skirt and figure hugging dress.

As the show went on ensembles moved away from wartime greens to deep rich cordovan browns; soft leather trousers and dresses, double breasted winter coats and accessories were all dipped in the sophisticated shade. Later on came traditional Winter greys and blacks; sumptuous velvet coats with oversized fur collars, leather pencil skirts and strapless free-flowing bodices. Towards the end of the show came this season’s more risqué pieces – dresses using intricate lace detailing wrapped around the models’ figures.

As for the collection as a whole it was clear that the tailored and polished look was the running theme. It worked. Models looked comfortable in what they wore with most outfits neither too tight nor too loose. When it came to accessories, models often sported riding hats and great pair of winter boots ready to march off into the distance.
~ Pascale Barget

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Joan Smalls walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Model walks the runway at the Ermanno Servino Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion


At Max Mara: Military coats, duffle coats and toggle sweaters all combine to make up a bold collection for a woman who likes to be in control, and at the same time dares to be different. Leather and alligator print inserts in a dropped waist and leather half-belts accentuate the military feel of the collection.
But the latter-day Lili is as much at ease in her fatigue pants gathered at the hem like a parachute as she is in her tailored shorts worn under a long sheepskin coat. Classic Max Mara styles such as the camel coat are given a new twist when fashioned into a power jumpsuit.
For a night at the officers club, she wears a sailor-striped jumpsuit highlighted with Art Deco tassels, but never lets go of her hat. Here black and white join the army shades.
Fabrics make all the difference. Far from military wool felt, these uniforms are made out of angora, patterned knits and a whole range of soft leathers and wool fabrics.
Footwear could hardly be anything but booties with an aggressive heel, but an occasional Mary Jane in silver mirrored leather softens the look. Leg and arm warmers accompany many outfits, a trend that seems to be making a comeback on the Milan preview runway.

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Max Mara Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Max Mara Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Max Mara Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Max Mara Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Max Mara Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Max Mara Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Max Mara Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Max Mara Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Fendi Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Fendi Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Fendi Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Fendi Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Fendi Autumn Winter 2012 fashion show during Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2012 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images)

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: a model walks the runway at the Angelo Marani Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Cora Emmanuel walks the runway at the Francesco Scognamiglio Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Liu Wen (d'management) walks the runway at the Francesco Scognamiglio Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Sui He walks the runway at the Francesco Scognamiglio Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

As usual, cool kids on the block, N°21, brought a wave of minimalism as an alternative to Milan’s usually sultry chic. The show kicked off with plenty of speckled earth tones wools – think zipped up khaki cardigans topped with a lapel-free and button-free pepper jacket, worn with shimmery cropped shorts. The buttoned-up collar trend is still holding on for another season, it seems: a notable anthracite cotton shirt with a white collar and black detailing made an appearance, worn with a mustard, fold-over skirt.

This winter will be burgundy tinted, the show seemed to say, as total burgundy looks, marched down: soft, ankle-length trousers, dresses and matching suit jacket, or cocktail dresses will tint our wardrobes.

Later the show morphed into lighter, nude tones, mixing jersey and silk, pistachio dresses in guipure, and plenty of belting. There were a couple of sexier numbers too, including plunging Y neck cocktail dresses in black silk worn with a visible camel bra, or crystal embroided skirt-suits.

And for the boldest ones in the audience, a total silk emerald look is also an option.

~ Alice Pfeiffer

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Joan Smalls walks the runway at the No. 21 Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Ming Xi walks the runway at the No.21 Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Xiao Wen Ju walks the runway at the No.21 Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Liao Shiya walks the runway at the Paola Frani Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Liao Shiya walks the runway at the Paola Frani Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: a model walks the runway at the Sergio Zambon Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: a model walks the runway at the Sergio Zambon Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Sui He walks the runway at the Simonetta Ravizza Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 22: Sui He walks the runway at the Simonetta Ravizza Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 fashion show as part of Milan Womenswear Fashion

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